#1999 CONTOUR SVT PDF#
#1999 CONTOUR SVT FULL#

I was going to try swapping the PCM from the two cars but my donor is a '98 with a return style system and the car I am working on is a '99 with returnless. **Again this leads me to PCM being faulty and causing it not to communicate** It also gave me hope if I can get them to communicate because there is a key programming option in the ScanTool software. The program communicates with the '98 donor car without any issues. I also hooked my computer with my Ford ScanTool program up to the car and it will not communicate with it at all. Swapped the ignition switch (electrical portion) - Checks out ok Swapped ignition antenna ring - Checks out ok **This leads me to believe the PCM is faulty or the PATS system is malfunctioningĭid some swapping/comparing to my rusted out but running '98 donor car Manually ground PCM side of Neutral/Park gear sensor - Car cranks but does not start (even with starter fluid) relay switches when manually grounded / Car cranks but does not start (even with starter fluid) Power to the green starter relay (relay 7) in the engine compartment - check Power to the ignition cylinder/switch- Checks out ok For those that might be trying to track down a similar issue I discovered that Auto Zone has wiring diagrams listed out by year - this has proved very invaluable to my diagnostic process.īecause it will not crank over I decided to focus on the starting system: Because I have read of so many people with similar issues I am going to try to detail everything I have done quite thoroughly. I managed to get the car into the garage and did some investicgation work on it tonight. Is this an issue with a ground? PATS malfunctioning? Neutral safety switch? Funny thing is even when I remove the key the PATS light never blinks unless I unhook the battery and reconnect it.

#1999 CONTOUR SVT FULL#

I have full dash lights (check engine light never turns off when the key is on) and half go off when I turn it to start. The PATS light blinks with the key off, accy, but turn it to on and the light goes away. I hooked he connector back up but now it won't event crank over. Tried jumping 12v directly to the fuel pump with it disconnected but it still didn't come on.

I thought there was supposed to be 12V to the fuel pump so I thought there might be another issue upstream. I was getting 6.8v from the purple/yellow to the black wires with it unplugged. Did not fix the issue so I unhooked the battery and disconnected the fuel pump connector (I have the returnless system). Narrowed it down to the fuel pump not priming up so I checked all fuses and swapped the relay for a known good one. When I tried to start it this weekend it wouldn't stsrt. The car was running when it was parked and has sat for about 2-3 weeks. If an admin could change this, I'll be happy to supply.I was trying to diagnose my cranking but no start this weekend and it has since turned into no crank no start.

#1999 CONTOUR SVT PDF#

I'd have attached the schematic as a pdf attachment, however, I don't have the necessary permissions to do so. Step A3 of the Ford pinpoint routine calls for the jumpering of the low pressure cycling switch. If your ambient temps are low (below 40-50F), the system pressure (due to thermodynamic contraction) may be too low to activate the low pressure system. When energized, the WOT relay routes power to the A/C clutch.Ī minimum system pressure of 45 psi is required to enable compressor clutch operation. The PCM then, under the sole control of its programming, either energizes or deenergizes the AC WOT relay. A feed off the blower power relay is routed through the selector switch, the low pressure cycling switch, the dual-function high pressure switch, then to the PCM as an input. The process of getting the AC clutch to energize is a bit convoluted on this model.Ī/C system is requested by the position of the function selector switch. Just can't happen unless the engine bay is on fire. It is virtually impossible (except in the presence of extraordinary temperatures) for this line to be overpressurized and trip the switch if the compressor is inoperative. When it opens, it also closes a second set of contacts that engage the high speed cooling fan function. It is designed to open (it is normally closed) in the presence of extraordinarily high pressures, somewhere north of 400 psi, IIRC. The high pressure safety switch is the one mounted on the refrigerant line near the coolant reservoir. It is designed to open when it senses the pressure is descending through a range of 21-25 psi. The low pressure cycling switch is mounted on the accumulator can.

1999 contour svt